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Saturday, February 19, 2011

Hamster feeding: Dietary requirements

Your pet hamster requires a fairly regular diet consisting of proteins, vitamins and minerals. Your pet will be quite happy to be fed about once a day, usually in the early evening, when it is starting to wake up.
If you are using a seed-mixture from a pet store, remember that two tablespoons of food per night is more than adequate. Generally it's a good idea to purchase a good hamster food seed mixture at most pet stores.
You should supplement the seed diet with a regular mixture of fresh greens such as lettuce, raw green beans, and raw carrots. You should provide your hamster with only just enough greens for him to finish in 20 minutes. Any leftover greens should be removed from the cage.
If the hamster begins defecating more than normal, take him off the greens for two days, and then gradually introduce the greens back into his diet every other day for about 10 days. This should return its bowel movements to normal. Avoid making drastic changes in your pet's diet. If you decide to change your pet's regular diet, start by introducing the new diet a little at a time, mixed in with your pet's old diet. Gradually increase the amount of food supplied from the new diet, and decrease the amount of food from the old diet over the course of about two weeks. This will allow your pet's system the chance to get used to the new food.


LIQUID / WATER

Hamsters need a regular supply of fresh water. You should either provide a water bowl filled with fresh water daily, or you can use a small animal water bottle, available at most pet stores, that will allow you to only have to change the water once a week. If you decide to use a water bottle, be sure the tip is made from metal and not plastic, as your pet will chew through the plastic tip. This could possibly cause flooding in its cage. If you do decide to use a bowl, make sure it's relatively heavy, otherwise you run the risk of having your pet knock its water bowl over, and have no liquids available to him or her.


FOODS TO AVOID

Hamsters will generally eat anything. From collared greens, to lean meat and fish, their diet is really only restricted by what you feed it. Generally stay with the store bought mixtures, as they tend to provide the required proteins and minerals your pet needs to remain healthy. Use other foods only as a supplement to your pet's primary diet. Be absolutely certain to never, under any circumstances, give the following foods and/or liquids to your pet, as they can cause your pet to get very ill, or even kill it.


  • Avoid Alcoholic Beverages.
  • Alcohol can kill your pet hamster very quickly. You should not even try to give it a couple of drops of alcohol "just as a joke." This is very serious, and if you love your pet, you will avoid alcohol at all costs. Avoid Pickles.
  • Pickles are yet another killer of hamsters. Actually, anything vinegar-based, such as pickles, will cause your hamster to suffer a quick death. Avoid Sticky Candy.
  • Gum, gumballs, toffees, and caramels should all be avoided. These can stick in the hamster's pouch causing drooling, but can also get stuck in the throat and cause suffocation. Avoid Hard Candy.
  • Such as lollipops, hot fireballs, sourballs etc. These can get lodged in your hamster's throat and cause suffocation. Avoid food that may have been touched by other animals.
  • Any food that may have been touched by other animals, such as dogs or cats, or any food that has been left out uncovered should not be given to your hamster. Food touched by other animals may have been urinated on, which is poisonous to your hamster. Food left uncovered can have bacteria on it that can cause your hamster to get sick. Avoid Cheeses.
  • Although cheese is a good source of protein, and your hamster will gobble it up quickly, it can lead to very smelly feces being left in the cage. This will cause you to have to clean the cage more frequently. Avoid Citrus Fruits.
  • Although hamsters love fruits and vegetables, citrus fruits such as oranges, tangerines, grapefruit, lemons and lime, should all be avoided. Citrus fruits contain citric acid, which can make your hamster very ill or worse. Do Not Feed Your Hamster Foods that are meant for other animals.
Rabbit foods, for example, aren't very good for your hamster. Rabbits have a lower requirement for protein, and therefore, their food isn't actually good for your hamster. You should also keep in mind that some pet foods contain different ingredients that are specific to the type of pet that the food is intended for, and some of those ingredients can be harmful to your hamster.

One thing to keep in mind is that just because your hamster CAN eat almost anything, doesn't mean that it SHOULD. Meats and fish, although readily accepted by hamsters, can be a source of harmful bacteria that can make your pet ill. For the most part, it's best that you stick with the store bought mixtures.

Identifying Hamster Gender

Do you know how to determine gender of your hamsters? Well, it's pretty easy to identify (as long as you know how) especially when they are sexually matured. (Easier to say I think because I did mixed up my hammys once).

Basically the male exhibits large, pronounced testicles and scrotal sack, and the anogenital distance is greater. The opposite is true for the female, as in most rodent species, where the anogenital distance is less than that if the male.

If the task of peeking their genital by holding them is too tricky (the hamster might be too active or aggressive for you to handle) you can use the 'transparent box' technique. First thing you need to do is to find a transparent box. Once you got it, carefully hold your hamster and transfer it into the box. From there you can simply take a peek underneath the box.

In males, try to look for large testicles underneath its body. There is also a bigger gap between the perineal area (area between the genitals and the anus) and it looks more rounded. Whereas in females, this perineal area comes to a point at the base of the tail.

Another great way to identify the gender is to look for punctuation. Yes, punctuation!! You read that right…you will usually find that a female sexual and anal organs are lined up like an exclamation point. Take a look at your hamster now and you will be surprised that I'm right. But if you notice two dots in a row that resemble a colon mark, then you've got a male on your hands.

Sick Hamster

If you found that your hamsters act differently, weirdly or anything out of their ordinary behavior, it could a symptom that your hamster is sick. Usual symptom such as shaking, looking weak and tired for a long time, coughing, walking weirdly or anything abnormal should alert you for immediate action. The best advice is to go and see a vet.

Some of the warning sign from a sick hamster:-

  • Anus smeared with droppings.
  • Their tail is wet (dangerous)
  • Noisy or heavy breath
  • Appearance of bald spots and sores
  • Unhealthy eyes

Treatment should only been done by a vet unless you have been provided with adequate guideline by the vet. No over the counter medicine, drugs or antibiotic should be applied unless prescribed by your vet.

Prior to vet visits, you are advised to do some precaution procedures to prevent any more harms or damages to the hamster or other hamsters such as :-

  • Separate the sick hamster from other hamsters if you are afraid that the sickness/disease could be contagious.
  • Clean up the cage and if possible sterilized all parts including toys, tubes, bottles and wheels.
  • All used bedding and unfinished foods should be discarded.
  • Keep the sick hamster in a quiet place away from any noisy environment to keep the hamster calm and prevent any further stress
  • Provide the sick hamster with enough water
  • In the mean time, monitor health condition of other hamsters for the same symptoms.
Prevention is always better than cure. So keep your hamster healthy by providing proper care to their environment and emotion.

Training

Teaching Tricks


Tricks?? Are you sure? Yes, indeed. You can teach your hamsters just like the way you taught your dogs doing all the tricks. Of course it may take practice and perseverance, but once they perform, you know that all your efforts are definitely worthy.

The important thing is to make sure you have tamed your hamster. Use a treat like sunflower seeds as a reward. By holding the treat above the hamster's head, it will surely have to stand on its hind legs to reach it. Repeat the word "stand" whilst doing this action. Do this a few times each day until you can make the hamster stand on its hind legs without you holding any treat but still say "stand". After quite a bit of practice, hopefully your hamster will stand elegantly.

How to Potty-train your Hamster


Do you know that u can potty-train your hamster(s) like any other pets? It may need some efforts and patience but worth all the troubles. At the end of the day, you will be delighted and pleased with a job well done (I surely did). All you need to do is to locate the favorite 'urinate' spot. After finding it, just do these little steps:

  • Find a glass or plastic jar that is big enough for your hamster to turn around and take the lid off.
  • Turn the jar on its side and place it in the "bathroom corner".
  • You could also place some droppings into the jar to encourage your hamster (optional).
  • Introduce the pee-jar by placing it in front of your hamster.
  • You will be surprised to find your hamster's wastes (liquid) inside the jar the next day. (IMPORTANT: the droppings dry quickly and is 'odor free' so do not worry if you find droppings everywhere the place.
The advantage of potty-training is that you can get rid of the bad smell if you clean the jar everyday. You do not have to put clean shavings in the bathroom corner frequently since their liquid wastes will only be touching the inside of the jar.

All the best for you guys out there….practice makes perfect!! Train, train & train.

Taming

Once you bring back the hamsters from the pet store, they will be quite terrified of the new surroundings. You can see how unsettled and panic they are in their new home. The first thing you need to do is to establish a bond between you and your new hamsters. This type of bond is to generate its trust in you so that they will feel protected and safe. Remember not to play with the hamsters at once because they will bite you and do not FORCE them out of the carrying box. Place the box on the floor of the cage and let them come out freely. Leave the cage in the dark for few hours to let them settle down.
Suggested day-to-day Hamster Taming procedure:-
  • Day 1 - Observe your hamsters but do not disturb them.
  • Day 2 - Introduce yourself by putting your hand in the cage and wait for a few minutes. Do not move your hand. Let them smell your hand to make them familiar with your scent. Repeat this process for few times.
  • Day 3 - Try to hand feed your hamsters and while doing it, talk to them softly.
  • Day 4 - 5 - You can try picking up your hamster and let it run from one hand to the other outside of its cage. As it runs, curl your fingers around its body so as to get them used to being held.
  • Day 6 - 14 - You can start introduce your new hamsters to your family and friends.
  • Day 15 onwards - Handle and play with your hamsters constantly and regularly as to tame them thus will form a wonderful bond between you and the hamsters.

How to hold/handle new hamster

The most important thing you need to know is that hamsters are near-sighted and have very limited view. For that reason, handle your hamsters only when you are sitting down. Always remember to let your hamsters smell and see your hands before picking them up. When you start handling your hamster, hold them firmly in your hand to stop them from running or jumping down. When you cup both of your hands around the hamster, leave a small hole to poke its head so that it can see what is happening around it and feel safe.

It is important to leave enough room between your hands so as not to squeeze your hamster. This method can also be used when you carry your hamster across a room or when you want to pick it up from the ground. Let your hamster run from one hand to the other and even across your arms. You can see how fast and energetic creature they are once the bondings emerge.

Once you have mastered this technique, try picking up and holding your hamster using one hand. Curl your fingers around your hamster's body and lift it but try not to squeeze your hamster especially not below its forelegs as this will prevent it to breathe. It is also advisable not to use this one hand method to carry it for long distances.

Another way to hold your hamster is by holding it from the nape of its neck and once it is lifted, it becomes immediately still. On the other hand, this method should ONLY be used by experienced hamster owner or someone who knows exactly where to hold the hamster and how much pressure to apply.

Choosing Cages

Choosing a suitable cage for your hamster(s) should be one of the most important decisions for each hamster owner. Bare in mind that the cage is like house same as for us human. All of us want to live in a safe, comfortable and clean home. Your hamster(s) should have the same rights and it is your responsibility to provide them with suitable living place to keep them happy, active and healthy.

There are several factors to consider when selecting hamster cages:-


Cage Size

The cage should have ample room for the hamster to do their favorite activity.. exercise!. For a solitary Syrian hamster, the cage should at least able to fit an exercise wheel and some extra space to live and doing other things. A small box that could act as a bedroom also recommended as the hamster usually prefers to have privacy when goes to sleep.

Dwarf hamsters should need a bigger space as we need to take into consideration that dwarf hamsters prefer to live in groups. So we need a cage that at least could cater for two of them plus spaces for them to play and sleep.

If you are planning to allow your hamster to breed, a bigger cage will be needed. Provide enough room for the hamsters to have their private spaces especially for a pregnant or nursing mother. There are cases when the mother attacks her companions due to overly protective reaction to their litters or maybe due to stress of feeling too crowded. Stress could also cause the mother to eat their litters.

Safety

Barred cages are commonly used as a hamster cage. For this type of cage, make sure the bars are close enough so that the hamsters couldn't slip through. This problem commonly occurs to dwarf hamsters or baby hamsters due to their small body size.

If you  have other types of pets such as cats or dogs in your house, choose other types of cages such as aquarium or plastic modular cages rather than barred cages to prevent any unwanted circumstances.

Easy to clean

Choose a cage that will not give you headaches to clean up. A tedious cleaning job could make some people bored and might end up doing improper cleaning or even didn't do the cleaning job regularly enough.

Expandability

Some cages are designed to allow future expansion possible. Usually these types of cages are quite expensive. A simple cage could be expandable up to being just like a castle for hamsters. Unless you can afford it, this feature is rather optional.

Common Behavior

1) Chewing, chewing & chewing.

Hamster likes to chew everything especially their cage bar. The reason why they are chewing the metal bars are that they need to trim their teeth. It is also believed that excessive metal bar chewing can cause the brain to become misaligned, in turn causing brain damage. So it is a good idea to try providing them alternative chewing items such as fruit tree branches and wooden chews which you can buy at the pet store. Remember that hamsters' teeth keep growing all their lives and they must always chew something hard to keep their teeth at the right length.



2) Running, running & running

Naturally, hamstres enjoys doing excercise. A typical day for the hamster entails running the equivalent horizontal distance of 2 miles (3.2 km). Hamster owners has a big responsibility to provide adequate exercise facilities for their hamsters. An excercise wheel is a MUST or the hamster might be bored and also become fat due to lack of excercise. By execercising, they will maintain high levels of fitness, maintain mental well-being, increase cardiovascular fitness and control weight levels.



3) The mother ate her litters

Cannibalism do happens between the mother and the newborn pups. The reason could be the mother is trying to protect the other pups in the cage from starvation or dehydration if there are too many pups to actively taking care of. It may also occur if the pup is handled by a human or other non-hamster creature before the pup matures. This behavior is commonly happend to the mother which giving birth for the first time. Other main cause is the mother depression due to several factors such as disturbance by the father or human or unhealthy living environment. So try to keep the mother happy by providing enough needs such as food and seperate the father if you found that he is disturbing the mother and pupps.



4) Stores food in their mouth

Hamsters use their cheek pouch to collect and transport food and nesting material from one place to another. When emptying their cheek pouch, they will use their forepaws to push the contents from the back of the cheek pouch forwards. This is especially important in the wild, as the cheek pouch enables a hamster to hoard and store food in winter, and when food supplies are low.

Breeding

IMPORTANT!

It takes a lot of time and research to responsibly breed hamsters. And people need to know a lot more than if their hamsters are healthy to breed. They need to know the entire genetic history because their hamsters could be carrying deforming and life threatening genes that are simply not affecting them but will affect their offspring.

It is highly advised NOT to breed pet store hamsters, or other hamsters that people do not know the genetic history of.

Don't even thinking about breeding your hamster if your are not ready in terms of :-

  • Knowledge : You might doing it the wrong and improper way
  • Mentally : You might lost your enthusiasm over time or getting tired of the tedious task.
  • Financially : You might need to buy more cages to separate your hamster
The article below was not meant to encourage hamster owner to breed their hamsters. In fact most of experienced and responsible pet owners will advise new hamster owner (especially kids) to stay away from breeding their hamster.
Only read further if you are 100% confident that you are the kind of person who will take full responsibility of anything you are doing.


The male golden hamsters should be first bred when they are 14 weeks old while the female as early as 10 weeks old. The best is to wait for the female hamsters reached four months of age as to minimize the chances of eating/destroying its own litter. It is always a good idea to breed hamsters of the same breed but make sure not to breed brother and sister hamsters. The father daughter or mother son combinations are usually fine. The next step is to make sure that your hamsters are healthy to prevent any spreading diseases.

Thin, stringy, cobweb-like mucus exits the female's vulva as the time of copulation approaches. The female is then placed into the male's cage about one hour before dark and must be carefully observed for mating activity and/or fighting. In this situation, the females can be very aggressive to males thus can harm them. Do remove the males at once if fighting occurs. If it is a success, the full term pregnancy will only take 15 to 16 days. Just before delivery, the female will become restless and usually discharges a small amount of blood from her vulva. The newborn pups are born hairless with its ears and eyes closed usually range from 5 to 10 pups. However, they do have their front teeth at birth.

The mother with young should be provided with abundant nesting and bedding materials and plenty of fresh food and water. They must not be disturbed in any way until at least 3 weeks old. Do not touch or handle the babies, disturb or clean the nest during this period. If you ignore these cautions (especially with females nursing their first litters) it often results in cannibalism of the babies.

Hamster Care

  • Hamster loves to exercise. They are naturally energetic and will do a lot of running. So make sure you provide all necessary equipment such as hamster wheels or adequate size of running space for them.
  • Hamster are nocturnal creatures (active at night) so they need peace during the day to sleep. It is highly recommended to place the cage away from draughts and direct sunlight. 
  • The cage floor should be covered with adequate layer of bedding. You can use the commercial wood shaving as they are absorbent and non-toxic.
  • Hamster also needs privacy during their resting time. Build them a simple small room for them to sleep or you can buy tubes (available at selected pet store).
  • Feed your hamster adequately. Make sure they have enough food and more important water supply.
  • Wash the hamster cage once a week. Keep the cage clean to prevent any infection risk.
  • Bathing your hamster are not recommended, don't worry they can clean themselves.
  • Build a good relationship with your hamster. Talk to them, hold them and playing with them will make your hamster happy.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Baby Hamster

Baby Hamsters – Caring Guide for Hamster Pups


One can’t just take his eyes off hamster pups, as these tiny cute little creatures will sure have your attention. Baby hamster are born without any fur and are closely attached to their mother. Though you may have the desire to hold them, bare in mind that there is nothing you can do within two weeks period after delivery.

REMEMBER NOT TO TOUCH THE BABIES!! Your action might harm the babies and change its scent thus confuses the mother. She will think that they are not hers, abandon them and worst she might even eat the babies (it did happened to my hamsters). Not to cause any stress to the mother, avoid cleaning up the cage within this period. It is advisable to place the babies at the bottom of the cage as none of them had opened their eyes yet.

After this two weeks ‘vital’ period, you can hold them but only for a brief period as not to disturb or stress the mom or babies. You can also clean up the cage and place fresh beddings in most of it. Remove just the soiled parts in the nest area and put a good portion of the old bedding in it. Put the babies back in the nest after it is cleaned up followed by the mother.

Once the babies eyes are opened (which should occur on the 11-12 days, but some take less/more), they should figure out how the bottle works. In order for them to reach it easily, put it lower and in an area where they frequently go. If they haven’t figured out how to use the bottle and you are worried about them not drinking enough, you can give them pieces of cucumbers to prevent dehydration. Do not put water in a bowl to prevent them from falling in and drown or catch a cold.

Cute At three weeks, you can separate the babies if you observe any fighting among them but if they seem immature, less developed and not quite independent enough to leave mom just yet, let them stay together until they are four weeks old. When they reach five weeks old, independent and have a healthy development, they can be placed in new homes and play in new surroundings and environment.

hamster type

syrian hamster


The big guys that are about 5-7" long and weigh 4-7 oz. on average. Their tails are almost bare and their feet have fine fur on the top, but none on the bottom -- just bumpy pads. They can have many different colors and patterns and long or short fur. Syrian hamster sometimes called "golden hamsters" as well as stupid pet-shop nicknames like "black bears," "teddy bears," "fancy hamsters," "Dalmatians," "panda bears," and other dopey or misleading terms. They must live individually by the time they're 6-8 weeks old or they will kill one another. They're the easiest of the species to handle, and perfect for first-time owners. Of course children will need supervision handling any pet, and hamsters are delicate enough to make this especially true. The smaller four species can live in same- or opposite-sex pairs or small colonies if they're same-sex siblings from the same litter or if introduced carefully when young. Their temperaments and habits are different enough that they must live only one species to a cage. Pairs or groups may have to be separated if fights or bullying ensues, so it's essential to have an extra cage on hand just in case.


Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamsters

 

Dwarf hamsters are the most common type of hamster that were adopted as pet. They are cute, easy to care and most importantly they are funny. Their act and behavior will surely make you smile or even laugh. They move fast and playing at most of their time. One of my dwarf hamster always run in a small circle at full speed for a minute and then stop for a while for a break lying on it's back with all legs up and then coutinue running like mad scattering away the beddings.

Usually, dwarf hamsters are 2.5-4" long and weigh 1-3 oz. on average. They have stubby little furry tails and fur on both the tops and bottoms of their feet. There are many different colors and patterns. They're sometimes called "Siberian dwarfs," but this is a common pet-store misnomer. They're also called things like "fancy dwarf hamsters," "blueberry hamsters," "blackberry hamsters" and other cutesy, inaccurate names.

The Campbell’s breed by large commercial breeders have given the dwarfs a bad reputation as being Nippy biters. This is not so as most Campbell’s are friendly inquisitive little animals that like to be held. The biting trait is I believe inherited. And by carefully selecting only animals that don't bite I have breed this trait out of my Campbell’s. I do have several females that will nip if they have babies. But that is to be expected of any animal with babies.

Campbells Dwarfs have been Breed in captivity Scene 1963 originally as Laboratory animals Possible references to dates as early as 1943 I am researching this. As A result there are now a number of Coat and Color Mutations available








Roborovski Dwarf Hamster


Scientific Name: Phodopus Roborovski
Country of Origin: Central Asia, Northern Russia, Mongolia, and Northern China
Lifespan: About 3 to 3 1/2 years
Size and Weight: 4 to 5cm and 20g to 25g
Other Important Facts:

The Roboroski hamster is becoming increasingly more available in pet stores. It is fast and very lively, but rarely nip. This hamster is not normally recommended to the first time hamster owner, as they can be tricky to handle. Roboroski hamsters are very sociable and should be bought in pairs of the same sex although many pet stores cannot sex these hamsters confidently. Roboroski hamsters should never be housed in small cages despite their small size and require at least a 24" X 12" glass tank or plastic cage. They should never be housed in barred cages, because they will squeeze through the bars or may get half stuck.






Blueberry Dwarf Hamster

Actually this type of hamster come form Dwarf Campbells Russian Hamsters family. Being called blueberry due to their bluish color.



 


Teddy Bear Hamsters

 

Teddybear hamster is actually a variation of Syrian hamster which belongs to the golden hamster group species. They are also being called as fancy hamsters and longhair hamster due to their special long soft hair which remarkably resemblance to toy teddy bears. So if you do not want a really hairy hamster, a teddybear might not be the best hamster for you. Sometimes they are also known as "angora hamsters" which refers an ancient breed of goats with exceptional long hair originally from the province of Angora, Turkey.

Teddy bear hamsters have an average life span of 2 to 3 years if they receive proper care from their owner. Their average body size is roughly up to 4 to 5 inches long for adult. As a Syrian hamster, they prefer to live in solitary, so you will need to house adult teddybear hamsters separately.

Some resources indicate that the teddy bear hamster seems to have more at risk on developing wet tail sickness compared to other species such as dwarf hamsters. So you will need to give extra care and attention to them especially for any factors that could affect their emotions.

Although most hamsters can groom themselves, you can also help them combing their hair by using special hamster combs that could be bought at pet stores. Even toothbrushes will work well. These tasks will also lead up to a healthy way in maintaining good relationship between you and your hamster.

hamster

Hamsters are rodents belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. The subfamily contains about 25 species, classified in six or seven genera.[1]
Hamsters are crepuscular. In the wild, they burrow underground in the daylight to avoid being caught by predators. Their diet includes a variety of foods, including dried food, berries, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. In the wild they feed primarily on seeds, fruits and greens, and will occasionally eat burrowing insects.[2] They have an elongated pouch on each side of their heads that extend to their shoulders, which they stuff full of food to be stored, brought back to the colony or to be eaten later.
Although the Golden Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus) was first described scientifically in 1839, it was not until 1930 that researchers were able to successfully breed and domesticate hamsters.[3] Pet Golden Hamsters are descended from hamsters first found and captured in Syria by zoologist Israel Aharoni.[4]
Hamster behavior can vary depending on their environment, genetics, and interaction with people. Because they are easy to breed in captivity, hamsters are often used as lab animals in more economically developed countries. Hamsters have also become established as popular small house pets.[3]

Contents

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Etymology of name

The name hamster derives from the German Hamster, which itself comes from earlier Old High German hamustro. Possibly related to Old Russian choměstrǔ, which is either a blend of the root of Russian khomiak "hamster" and a Baltic word (cf. Lithuanian staras "hamster")[5] or of Persian origin (cf. Av hamaēstar "oppressor")[6]

Characteristics

Hamsters are stout-bodied, with tails shorter than body length, and have small furry ears, short stocky legs, and wide feet. Their thick, silky fur, which can be long or short, can be black, gray, honey, white, brown, yellow, or red depending on the species, or a mix of any of those colors.
Two species of hamsters belonging to the genus Phodopus (Phodopus campbelli, Campbell's Dwarf Hamster, and Phodopus sungorus, the Djungarian Hamster) and also two of the species of the genus Cricetulus, (Cricetulus barabensis, the Chinese Striped Hamster, and Cricetulus griseus, the Chinese Dwarf Hamster) have a dark stripe down the head to tail. The species of genus Phodopus are the smallest, with bodies 5.5 to 10.5 centimetres (2.2 to 4.1 in) long; the largest is the European Hamster (Cricetus cricetus), measuring up to 34 centimetres (13.4 in) long, not including a short tail of up to 6 centimetres (2.4 in). The Angora hamster, also known as the long-haired or Teddy Bear hamster, which is a type of the Golden Hamster is the second-largest hamster breed, measuring up to 18 centimetres (7.1 in) long.[3]
Hamsters have poor eyesight; they are nearsighted[citation needed] and colorblind. However, they have an acute sense of smell and can hear extremely well. Hamsters can use their sense of smell to detect gender, locate food, and detect pheremones. They are also particularly sensitive to high-pitched noises and can hear and communicate in the ultrasonic range.[4]
The tail is sometimes difficult to see; usually it is not very long (about 1/6th the length of their body) with exception of the Chinese dwarf hamster whose tail is the same length as the body. On a long haired hamster it is barely visible. Hamsters are very flexible, and their bones are somewhat fragile. They are extremely susceptible to rapid temperature changes and drafts, as well as extreme heat or cold. Hamsters are hindgut fermenters and must eat their own feces in order to digest their food a second time. This practice is called coprophagy and is necessary for the hamster to obtain the proper nutrients from its food.[1]
Hamsters are omnivorous. They eat most things, and although they should regularly be given a diet of normal hamster food, it is enjoyable for both the owner and the hamster to experiment with other things, such as vegetables, fruits (though these should be removed once they go rotten or bad) seeds and nuts.
One characteristic of rodents that is highly visible in hamsters is their sharp incisors. They have two pairs in the front of their mouths and these incisors never stop growing and thus must be regularly worn down. Hamsters carry food in their spacious cheek pouches to their underground storage chambers. When full, their cheeks can make their heads double (or even triple) in size.[1] Hamsters in the Middle East have been known to hunt in packs to find insects for food.[7]

Behavior


Golden hamster grooming
Golden Hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) are generally solitary and may fight to the death if put together. Some dwarf hamster species may get along with others of the same species. Siberian hamsters form close, monogamous bonds with their mates. If separated, they may become very depressed. This happens especially in males. Males will become inactive, eat more, and even show some behavioural changes similar to some types of depression in humans. This can even cause obesity in the hamster.
Hamsters are primarily considered crepuscular because they live underground during most of the day, only leaving their burrows about an hour before sundown and then returning when it gets dark. At one point they were considered nocturnal because they are active all night. Some species have been observed to be more nocturnal than others.[4] All hamsters are excellent diggers, constructing burrows with one or more entrances and with galleries that are connected to chambers for nesting, food storage, and other activities.[1] They will also appropriate tunnels made by other mammals; the Djungarian Hamster (Phodopus sungorus), for instance, uses paths and burrows of the pika. Although hamsters do not hibernate per se, they do “close down” a number of systems, such as breathing and heartbeat rate, for short periods of time. These periods of torpor can last up to seven to ten days. Hamsters are known to stockpile large amounts of food where they sleep, making it possible to leave pet hamsters alone for a few days without food.[3]

Reproduction


A mother Golden Hamster with pups under one week old.
Hamsters become fertile at different ages depending on their species, but this can be from one month to three months of age. The female’s reproductive life only lasts about 18 months, but male hamsters remain fertile much longer. Females are in heat approximately every four days, indicated by a reddening of genital areas.[3]
Hamsters are seasonal breeders. Breeding season is from April to October in the northern hemisphere, with two to five litters of 1 to 13 young being born after a gestation period of 16 to 23 days.[7] Gestation lasts 16 to 18 days for Golden Hamsters, 18 to 21 days for the Russian hamsters, 21 to 23 days for Chinese hamsters and 23 to 30 for Roborovski Hamsters. The average litter for Golden Hamsters is about 7, but can be as great as 24, which is the maximum number of pups that can be contained in the uterus. Campbell's Dwarf Hamsters tend to have 4 to 8 in a litter but can have up to 14. Djungarian Hamsters tend to have slightly smaller litters, as do Chinese and Roborovski hamsters.
Chinese hamster females are known for being aggressive toward the male if kept together for too long. In some cases, male Chinese hamsters can die after being attacked by the female. If breeding Chinese hamsters, it is recommended to separate the pair after mating or the hamsters will attack each other.
Golden hamster females are also very aggressive toward male hamsters and must be separated immediately after breeding in order to prevent an attack. Female hamsters are also particularly sensitive to disturbances while giving birth and may even eat her own young if she thinks they are in danger, although sometimes she is just carrying the pups in her cheek pouches.[4]
Hamsters are born hairless and blind in a nest that the mother will have prepared in advance.[3] After one week they begin to explore outside the nest. They are completely weaned after three weeks, or four for Roborovski Hamsters. Most breeders will sell the hamsters to shops when the hamsters are anywhere from three to nine weeks old.

Mating and longevity

Golden Hamsters typically live no more than two to three years in captivity, less than that in the wild. Russian Hamsters (Campbell's and Djungarian) live approximately 1.5 to 2 years in captivity, and Chinese Hamsters 2.5 to 3 years. The smaller Roborovski Hamster often lives to 2–3 years in captivity.[1] Both Golden and Russian hamsters mature quickly and can begin reproducing at a young age (4–5 weeks), whereas Chinese hamsters will usually begin reproducing at 2–3 months of age, and Roborovskis at 3–4 months of age.

Left to their own devices, hamsters will produce several litters a year with several pups in each litter. When seen from above, a sexually mature female hamster has a trim tail line; a male's tail line bulges on both sides. This might not be very visible in all species. Male hamsters typically have very large testes in relation to their body size. Before sexual maturity occurs at about 4–6 weeks, it is more difficult to determine a young hamster's sex. When examined, female hamsters have their anal and genital openings close together, whereas males have these two holes farther apart (the penis is usually withdrawn into the coat and thus appears as a hole or pink pimple).[3]

It should also be noted that if a captive hamster is left for extended periods (3–4 weeks and more) with her litter, there is a high possibility that she will cannibalize the litter. It is therefore imperative that the litter be split up by the time the young can collect their own food and water.

Hamsters as pets


A Sable short-haired Golden Hamster
The best-known species of hamster is the Golden or Syrian Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus), which is the type of hamster most commonly kept as a pet. It is also sometimes called a "fancy" hamster. Pet stores also have taken to calling them "honey bears", "panda bears", "black bears", "European black bears", "polar bears", "teddy bears", and "Dalmatian", depending on their coloration. There are also several variations, including long-haired varieties that grow hair several centimeters long and often require special care. British zoologist Leonard Goodwin claimed that most hamsters kept in the United Kingdom were descended from the colony he introduced for medical research purposes during the Second World War.[8]
Other hamsters that are kept as pets are the four species of "dwarf hamster". Campbell's Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus campbelli) is the most common of the four—they are also sometimes called "Russian Dwarfs"; however, many hamsters are from Russia, and so this ambiguous name does not distinguish them from other species appropriately. The coat of the Djungarian or Winter-white Russian Dwarf Hamster (Phodopus sungorus) turns almost white during winter (when the hours of daylight decrease).[3] The Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii) is extremely small and fast, making it difficult to keep as a pet.[1] The Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus), although not technically a true "dwarf hamster", is the only hamster with a prehensile tail (about 4 cm long)—most hamsters have very short, non-prehensile tails.
Many breeders also show their hamsters and so breed towards producing a good healthy show hamster with a view to keeping one or two themselves so quality and temperament are of vital importance when planning the breeding. Although breeders of show hamsters specialise in breeding show hamsters, there are also owners who have bred their pet hamsters. These may be the result of a planned or unplanned pregnancy but the hamsters have usually been cared for well and handled regularly, so make very suitable pets. Buying a hamster directly from a breeder means that there is the opportunity to see the parents and know the dates of birth.[citation needed]

Classification

Taxonomists generally disagree about the most appropriate placement of the subfamily Cricetinae within the superfamily Muroidea. Some place it in a family Cricetidae that also includes voles, lemmings, and New World rats and mice; others group all these into a large family called Muridae. Their evolutionary history is recorded by 15 extinct fossil genera and extends back 11.2 million to 16.4 million years to the Middle Miocene Epoch in Europe and North Africa; in Asia it extends 6 million to 11 million years. Four of the seven living genera include extinct species. One extinct hamster of Cricetus, for example, lived in North Africa during the Middle Miocene, but the only extant member of that genus is the European or Common Hamster of Eurasia.

Relationships among hamster species

Neumann et al. (2006) conducted a molecular phylogenetic analysis of 12 of the above 17 species of hamster using DNA sequence from three genes: 12S rRNA, cytochrome b, and von Willebrand factor. They uncovered the following relationships:
Phodopus group
The genus Phodopus was found to represent the earliest split among hamsters. Their analysis included both species. The results of another study (Lebedev et al., 2003) may suggest that Cricetulus kamensis (and presumably the related C. alticola) might belong to either this Phodopus group or hold a similar basal position.
Mesocricetus group
The genus Mesocricetus also form a clade. Their analysis included all four species, with M. auratus and M. raddei forming one subclade and M. brandti and M. newtoni another.
Remaining genera
The remaining genera of hamsters formed a third major clade. Two of the three sampled species within Cricetulus represent the earliest split. This clade contains Cricetulus barabensis (and presumably the related C. sokolovi) and Cricetulus longicaudatus.
Miscellaneous
The remaining clade contains members of Allocricetulus, Tscherskia, Cricetus, and Cricetulus migratorius. Allocricetulus and C were sister taxa. Cricetulus migratorius was their next closest relative, and Tscherskia was basal.

Similar animals

Note that there are some rodents that are sometimes called "hamsters" that are not currently classified in the hamster subfamily Cricetinae. These include the Maned Hamster or Crested Hamster, which is really the Maned Rat (Lophiomys imhausi), although not nearly as marketable under that name. Others are the mouse-like hamsters (Calomyscus spp.), and the white-tailed rat (Mystromys albicaudatus).